A View of Boquillas and the Great Javelina Quest

January 24,2013

Well, by golly, the windows didn't get done yesterday! The day was too gorgeous and the sun so warm that after lunch I quit cleaning. I did get every hard surface inside wiped down. The desert dust gets in fast. The wind died down the last two days, but with the windows open during the day, the dust, dirt, sand, and grit were already inside. A fair tradeoff for being here in the warmth.

Actually, yesterday was in the 80's and without wind it was too hot! Sorry, I know you all back East are freezing. Greg took another morning bike ride and went down the River Road East. The paved River Road West we took to arrive at Big Bend. This end is unpaved and travels all across the park to hook up with the paved stretch. He visited the Hot Springs, but couldn't find them. Apparently he didn't walk far enough. We found out later that there is only room for four persons, and no tall weeds to change in. The Mexicans are very close across the river and like to watch the women change! This according to our camp host.

Greg rode down a few trails to primitive camp sites and then came back for lunch. In the afternoon we drove to the water and dump station outside the campground to refill our water tank. We had used it all up, even with careful conservation measures like using the camp bathroom and washing sink, and filling our teapot and pitcher at the outdoor faucet. After filling up the tank, we drove to Boquillas so Greg could show me the overlook and the town across the river. We saw the gate for the new crossing. Still not open, and walked around at the overlook. Once again there were a half dozen “Mexican craft stores” arranged on the rocks. They had additional items, including walking sticks made from the stalks of the desert sotol plant.

Across the river were several horses and a boat pulled up on the shore. Several “caballeros” were talking and laughing. Upriver on the bluff is the town of Boquillas. It consists of maybe two dozen flat roofed houses with a few square windows cut in them. Also, one several story enclosed tower with maybe one window. Greg decided it was their way to spy on the border and keep track of things. Who knows? Obviously, the residents do come across and probably use the boat we saw. We could see “social trails” coming up the cliff from the river. These are narrow, unofficial trails that appear to be used regularly.

On the way back we stopped at the general store to use their WiFi to check e-mail and Facebook. We treated ourselves to ice cream from the box freezer. Had to eat it fast in the heat!

We had an interesting conversation with Royleen our campground host. She and her husband, Royce, have been volunteer hosts in this camp for 14 years. This is their last year. They live here in their RV from October through January. They have a house in Kerrville, Texas. She wears an official park service uniform, with an award pin for 6,000 hours of service, and drives around in a golf cart checking people in and answering questions. We had a great discussion about the local javelinas, the recently sighted coyote that someone probably fed during the race last weekend, so he is coming around, and other assorted wildlife and flood stories.

Greg went looking for javelinas last night and saw them again. He also showed a couple from California and their three dogs where to find them. Such excitement! This pack of javelinas hasn't figured out how to open the food storage boxes. Apparently the last pack had, but they disappeared after the great flood a few years ago. They figured out how to unzip tents with their snouts, and if that didn't work, they just ripped them up. One of them found a food storage box not quite closed and after that, they were able to get in to them. Quite smart for dumb, ugly looking animals!

This is our last day and night here. If it proves to be too cold farther north, we may be back. This camp has a good feel to it. Greg is out on the Old Ore Road on his bike today, and I may ride around on the campground roads for some exercise. And wash some windows!