January 5
th and 6
th, 2015
After our mad dash across the country and our brush with bad
weather, we were ready to just sit and chill for a few days. But, no!
We decided to divert to Bisbee, Arizona in the mountainous
southeastern part of the state. Our first winter out we flew through
here trying to out run a snow storm, (we weren't successful), and I
made Greg promise, as we drove past a funky, interesting looking
town, that we would come back. This time we had good weather and
after an interesting night in Douglas, Arizona at the local golf
course/rv park/sportsbar/home to many geriatric men who were
disappointed that I only stayed one night, we left for Bisbee.
We drove into town past the gaping pit of the Queen Mine, and
landed in the Queen Mine RV Park, right on the rim of the mine.
Granted, there was a tall chain link fence between us and the pit,
but even so, it was impressive. It was a small park with nice
facilities. We enjoyed the showers after our many nights at Flying
J's! Arriving early enough to go out for lunch, we made the short
walk over to Old Bisbee. Stopping at Santiago's we ordered the local
brews from the Old Bisbee Brewing Company and Sonoran Mexican food.
Excellent choices! Then we spent some time exploring the town.
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The Queen Mine Pit with the RV park right on the edge |
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Our campsite backed up to the mine pit rim. |
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Our view |
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Looking across Bisbee at the pit |
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Local brew and tacos |
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Street Art on old building foundation |
Bisbee is an old copper mining town that has found a new life as a
funky, artsy, touristy town. The town is built on two sides of a
canyon. Houses climb the steep hillsides from the narrow downtown.
Most of the homes are from the heyday of the mining era and some have
been redone, others look like they could take a tumble down the hill.
There are a few steep streets ascending the hills, but most of the
homes are linked by staircases. In October the Bisbee 1000 is held
and people race up and down various sets of steps to make up 1000
steps.
|
One of the hillside cottages |
|
Old Bisbee Brewing Company |
We walked a bunch of the steps. They are labeled, and lead into
all kinds of interesting places and past houses that are impossible
to reach from the roads. A lot of the homes are painted in crazy
colors, even the Victorian styled United Methodist Church was painted
lemon yellow with lime green trim. The other colors that catch your
eye are from the street art, a legitimate form of public expression
in Bisbee. Downtown has art galleries, eateries, and old hotels. The
streets and hills have street art and funky shacks, and beautifully
restored houses. A really cool mix that makes for lots of surprises
and interest.
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Looking into the yard of a local house for sale. We were ready to buy! It even had a woodstove for Greg! |
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Garden Gate sculpture |
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Walking up a back alley |
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Another garden gate |
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Looking down into someone's courtyard garden |
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Street art in an old home foundation |
|
Bisbee entertainment venue |
After a reasonably quiet night on the rim, interrupted only by
some traffic noise (the main highway runs through the canyon, too)
and repercussions from the too spicy salsa at Santiago's, Greg
decided to take the tour into the Queen Mine. I passed on it. Three
problems; claustrophobia, worn out from previously mentioned
repercussions, and a face plant the afternoon before on a Bisbee
sidewalk. I stayed in the rig and nursed my wounds, while Greg took
the small open train into the narrow, deep mine...He enjoyed his
tour.
|
The miners wagon still used for underground mine tours |
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The entrance to some of the 2,400 miles of tunnels under Bisbee |
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Ore loading chute |
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The relief cart being offered for tourist's use |
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Learning about Mine operations |
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Simulated Fuses on a rock face ready to blast |
Lunch time arrived and we carefully walked the sidewalks of
Bisbee to the Cafe Cornucopia. We had an excellent vegetarian lunch,
Greg had the green chili quiche, and since the waitress decided that
my piece of spinach quiche was smaller than they usually serve, she
offered us a free desert. Now, we don't usually get dessert, but
free? We enjoyed their homemade chocolate truffle pie even more for
being free!
|
Quiche and lentil soup |
|
Downtown Bisbee |
We spent the rest of the afternoon just wandering. Most of the
shops are closed Tuesday and Wednesday this time of year, so we
concentrated on climbing up and down stairs to explore. We found the
“newer” part of town, which looks as old as Old Bisbee, but
without the tourists, and finally late afternoon wound up on the
patio of the Old Bisbee Brewing Company to try their beer and cool
off. I tried the Salut de la Vie, which originated in France in 1880
when the grape harvest crashed and they experimented and began
brewing a “beer” that tasted like sparkling wine. When the grape
harvest came back, it was still so popular that the French government
banned it and the recipe was destroyed. The brewery in Bisbee somehow
figured out how to replicate it, and brew small batches. It was
really tasty and refreshing. Would love to try it again someday.
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Miners Memorial- called The Iron Man |
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Rolling Street Art |
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The brewery patio |
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Salut and stout |
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The brewery annex across the street |
Seated next to us were Vick and Amanda and their dogs. Long time
friends from grad school days, they were camped in the same RV park.
Vick is fulltiming. Amanda was along for a trip. We had a great free
ranging conversation and shared lots of RVing and boondocking tips.
Vick travels in a Sprinter based rig similar to ours. The morning
before we left found us touring each others rigs and Greg helping the
otherwise very self-sufficient Vick figure out how to make her TV
work. Then we drove west toward Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument,
and they drove east. Here's hoping our paths cross again!
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