Thursday, November 21, 2013
Well, we never found the mega-multi-armed saguaro cactus, so after
a quiet day on Tuesday, Greg explored more mining roads, while I made
new curtains for our back window, we left Dome Rock Road on
Wednesday. We decided to use up the rest of our water since we were
going into Quartzsite to refill it and dump. After both of us
showering, we managed to keep our shower water use to about nine
gallons. I solved my hair washing dilemma by washing it in the
kitchen sink. A “real” shower is going to feel incredibly
luxurious!
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This Episode's Fierce Wildlife |
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Sunset over Dome Rock |
Our first stop in Quartzsite was the RV Pit Stop. There for $10
for dumping and an additional $4 for water, we got ready for more
boondocking. Our next stop was K&B which was a combination
hardware store, home store, and RV store under one big awning. We
found some LED lights to try in our incandescent and halogen light
fixtures. They should draw down the battery far less when we dry
camp.
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You can find any kind of RV-related service in Quartzsite |
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Water is precious in the desert |
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Many stores do not have real buildings |
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Outdoor-only restaurants are typical also |
Next stop was the Desert Oasis Bookseller. It is run by Paul who
is known as the “Naked Bookseller”. As we drove into the parking
lot he was outside tending the outdoor tables and had his back to us.
All we could see was his long hair, straw hat and nakedness. When he
turned around we could see his aviator sunglasses and his “sack”
cinched around his privates! Sewn on it was a tiger or shark tooth.
To be honest, he's got some age on him, and is pretty lean. Too much
time in the dry, sunny desert has made him leathery. He quietly went
about his business while we browsed. We purchased a few items, but to
make change he had to leave to get it. As Greg said, he didn't have
any pockets!
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Yep, Paul in the all-together |
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This is the UFO section |
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Paul is also a Vaudeville star. |
We got a late start heading south on 95 towards Yuma. A lot of
RVer's stay in Yuma in the warm winter, but our goal was to make it
to Ajo by nightfall. There is a favorite boondocking spot on BLM land
just south of town, that we have read about on a lot of blogs. It's
in the Sonoran desert, where you are surrounded by saguaro cactus,
and just north of Pipe Organ Cactus National Monument which borders
Mexico. We reached Yuma and drove east on I-8 until we arrived at
Gila Bend. From there we headed south to Ajo.
Racing the sunset we arrived at dusk. There was a beautiful sunset
as we drove back Darby Wells Road. A wide graded road took us a mile
back into the area along the high tailings piles from the nearby
copper mine, the oldest in Arizona. We reached a fork in the road
with a sign that said that area is frequented by smugglers. Hmm...We
drove both directions on the forks. There wasn't a soul anywhere! All
the white RV's stick out like sore thumbs amongst the desert
vegetation. No one was there! It was getting darker by the minute, we
had to turn around twice, and frankly, I didn't want to boondock
there without other campers. We drove back into Ajo and checked into
Belly Acres RV Park.
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Yuma Proving Ground |
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Gila River |
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Dates |
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Dust from plowed farm fields along I-8 |
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AJO |
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Copper tailings piles |
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Darby Wells Road next to the copper pit mine |
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Sunset is pretty but not when you are trying to find a campsite |
It was disappointing to miss camping in such a beautiful and
interesting spot, and we had already boondocked for 12 straight
nights and were hoping to stretch it longer. Belly Acres was a sweet
little park, the brother and sister who own it were very friendly
and we slept well and felt safe. Well, I slept like a log. Greg woke
to the howl of coyotes and heard what sounded like quail “whining”
under the rig to get away from them! The owner thought they might
have been javelinas, but we don't think they would fit, and in our
encounters with them last winter in Texas, we never heard them make a
sound. Anyway, Greg couldn't wake me, so I missed the
“surround-sound” experience.
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A neatly kept little RV park |
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Ajo Town Plaza |
This morning with the sun shining, we decided to leave the area
and drive east across the Tohono O'odham Nation. We considered going
south to the Pipe Organ Cactus National Monument, but after checking
their website and finding parts of the scenic drive closed, we
assumed due to border problems, we didn't go there. The drive across
the reservation was scenic with thousands of saguaro cacti along the
route. Just before Tuscon we were going to head south into Buenos
Aires National Wildlife Refuge to dry camp, and then tomorrow head
east through the mountains across a scenic route towards New Mexico.
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Sonoran Desert on the Reservation |
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Kitt Peak Observatory southwest of Tucson |
We pulled over for lunch and checked the weather. What?! When did
this big rainmaker get in the forecast? A small chance of rain for
the next few days had turned into major flooding in the area we had
just come through and where we were going. A lot of the boondocking
spots are dry washes that turn into rivers in a downpour. Okay,
change of plans. We decided to get on I-10 and sail on over to New
Mexico where we were heading eventually anyway. That state looked to
be getting less rain, but more wind, and everywhere was getting
unseasonably cold.
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Weather moving up from Mexico |
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We could see thunderstorms from 20 miles away |
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Threading the needle between storms |
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A few patches of blue sky |
We managed to avoid most of the rain coming from Arizona into New
Mexico. We could see huge downpours around us. At dusk we pulled into
the Lordsburg, New Mexico welcome center where we spent a wild,
windy, sleety night last winter. This time we pulled way over to the
end of the parking lot. Last year we parked in the middle and had
trucks pulling in and out on both sides of us all night. We found an
Albuquerque TV station and discovered that the weather forecast had
worsened and there is going to be snow and mixed precipitation over
most of the state. It looks like we can go south of Deming to
Rockhound State Park and have most of it miss us. They have electric
hookups and we can run our space heater and ride out the weather and
cold while we cocoon for a few days. So, tomorrow we'll get some
groceries in Deming and be all set. Over the next few weeks, we plan
to stay at several New Mexico State Parks and use our annual pass to
camp for $4 a night. Then we'll start to work our way to Florida for
Christmas.
Once again we've been chased out of Arizona by the weather, twice
last winter. This year we have also been finding closed areas and
uneasiness due to border issues. It is frustrating to be shut out of
beautiful, wild areas, or having to be extra alert due to possible
dangers because of these issues. We vacillate between feeling like it
is much ado about nothing, and feeling like it is a serious
consideration. I don't know what the answer is, and don't want to
debate the politics, I just know that we are unable to freely visit
amazing places within our own borders and it makes me angry and
sad...