Summer Arrives on PEI!

Monday, June 24, 2013

Greg took a short bike ride down to Montague before we packed up and left for Prince Edward Island National Park on Sunday. It was another mostly sunny day and we enjoyed the drive through the interior of the island to get to the north shore. Traveling across rolling hills, we passed green fields, newly planted potato plots, cows, and lots of farms. Greg picked out a restaurant in North Rustico near Cavendish and the national park. We found the Blue Mussel Cafe on a sand spit in the ocean past the harbor. They had just opened for the season the day before. Sitting outside on the deck with a view of the harbor, we tried the beer from the newest brewery on PEI, the Beach Chair Lager from PEI Brewing. Greg got a lobster roll, his first lobster since we arrived in Canada. It was fun to watch the German tourists try oysters on the half shell and steamed mussels. We splurged with desserts. I got the rhubarb crisp made from the local in-season rhubarb. Yummy, and not too sweet!

Lupines everywhere!

Potatoes, in progress

Blue Mussel Cafe

North Rustico harbor

Sunshine, Beer, Summer!

Vacationing cows on PEI

It was a short drive over to Cavendish and the visitor center. Cavendish is the center of the Anne of Green Gables attractions. The house and grounds that inspired L. M. Montgomery to write her books is part of the national park. Because of budget cuts it is open only on Tuesdays through Thursdays until July 1. The books are hugely popular in Japan and busloads of Japanese tourists come to see Anne's house. They have been very disappointed this year to come all that way and are unable to tour the house. While we were at the visitor center, two young Japanese women came in with bike helmets on, obviously very tired from biking to come see the Anne site. They were politely disappointed to find out it was closed.


We spent a long time at the visitor center taking advantage of their wifi to catch up with e-mails and post the blog. Then we drove the short distance to the park. As we stood at the entrance window talking to the ranger about the campground, the mosquitoes descended. We quickly jumped back in the cab and went off to pick out a site. The campground is along the beach. There is room for tents on the bluff, but no RV's, so we picked a two way site, which provides electric and water, in the woods. A three way adds sewer to that. We saved a little money by planning on using the dump station when we leave. We were also charged less because, until July 1, it's still considered the shoulder season.

Multitasking blog and email

We backed in, put up a few blocks for leveling the RV, Greg began to hook up, and the mosquitoes found us! Black fly season seems to be almost over, but now we have mosquito season. We had a small overlap between the two. In the campgrounds people spray themselves heavily with repellent and build smoky fires to sit in. We go inside, open the windows and count on our screens. At the last campsite we had to keep closing the windows as the smoke shifted.


We took a walk on the beach before dinner. There's red sand and flat rocks that go out into the water, which is surprisingly warm. The clouds began to build up. The forecast called for a chance of thunderstorms, so we headed back to our site. Later the rain began, not thunderstorms, but downpours, all night! This morning the sun came out, but now it is steamy!

Cavendish Beach

Lifeguard stands waiting for summer

Tidal pond outlet

Red Squirrel gathering burlap next to camper

Greg went out for an exploratory bike ride along the coast this morning, and rode the scenic Gulf Shore Trail back to North Rustico, where we ate lunch yesterday. On the way there he saw a mink near the trail. After lunch we both rode out partway along the same path and stopped from time to time to take in the view of the red cliffs. I'm still trying to figure out how to use the battery boost. The battery sits on a rack over the back tire, and the motor is attached to the rear wheel. Both are heavy, so I'm learning to control a bike that wants to sway if I turn too sharply. But, I sure was happy to have it on the hills. We talked to an older couple on bikes who stopped to talk while we were resting at the top of a hill. He had a lovely accent and rolled his “r's”. She said that they were going to go over “da” and then over “da” and back. We don't know where they were from. There are so many distinctive and charming accents.

 

The mosquitoes found their way into the shower house where we showered after our hot, steamy riding. What a change from weeks and weeks of rain, wind, and cold. It feels like summer has finally arrived in Atlantic Canada. We ran the air conditioning for the first time since last December in Florida, just to lower the humidity in the RV. While I was cooking dinner, Greg said, “Hey, look! A fox!” At the campsite two down from us, a fox was slinking around. He even got up on the picnic table to check it out. The campers were smart and didn't leave anything out when they left. We saw a fox on the side of the road when we drove in yesterday. A couple stopped to get out of their car to look at it. We thought that it was too friendly for a wild animal, but it appears that it's accustomed to people.

Fox on picnic table

This morning, Tuesday, dawned without rain, so we made it through the night without the loud strumming of rain on the roof. Greg first rode the six mile Homestead trail and came back to tell me to get ready to ride, while he rode his bike into town for a few provisions. After he got back with the local Gahan Brewery beer in his backpack, we set out for the trail. The day was hot and muggy, but the trail went through a cool, shady spruce forest, along a bay, over two bridges and through the countryside surrounded by farm fields. The wildflowers are blooming, and the huge thickets of rambling roses smelled heavenly, the humidity encouraging their fragrance. We stopped several times to watch the tide flow out under the bridges while the crabs and fish fought the strong current.

Tidal pond outlet

Farm Fields

The “turbo bike” was a big help and I used it more today now that I know the battery will last a long time. I hardly put a dent in it today. The bigger issue for me was a problem with the generative braking. When I brake the back wheel, where the motor is, it switches to the generative mode and puts charge back into the battery. It's a cool feature, but too sensitive and hasn't turned off reliably the last two days. It gets stuck in the mode and makes it difficult to pedal. Yesterday, I was having to pedal on a long hill that Greg was coasting down. I finally discovered that the G braking was stuck and I was working against it. Today I fell over when I starting riding because it was stuck on and I couldn't pedal hard enough to get started before falling over! We decided to disable it, so I really enjoyed the rest of the ride without having to constantly worry about the brakes acting up!


After lunch today we planned to put our swimsuits on and go to the beach. We wanted to be able to say that we had actually gone swimming in the Gulf of St. Lawrence! After a hot, muggy morning, in the afternoon, the clouds came back and the temperature dropped into the mid-60's and the wind picked up, so we passed on the beach. Instead we had a relaxing afternoon in the RV reading and listening to a French radio station playing jazz, folk, and generally odd-sounding music. Greg was calling it Acadian rap, but who knows?


This evening the sky looks threatening, and there is a possibility of thunderstorms, but so far all is quiet. Tomorrow we will stop at the Cavendish visitor center again and post this to the blog, stop at the Anne of Green Gables house, and then move east along the north shore to another section of the national park with new bike trails for us to ride. Next Monday is Canada Day, celebrating the founding of their nation and the official start of summer, so we will move on to some of the less popular parts of the island. This week we are able to stay at the national park without reservations and avoid the crowds. We still want to re-visit the eastern end of the island where we traveled the first time we were here, and see the western end, which will be new for us. As long as we leave the island in time to reach Sydney, Nova Scotia and the Newfoundland ferry by July 10^th, we'll be on schedule!

Turbo Bike, the PEI Ferry, and Wonderful Canadians!

Saturday, June 22, 2013

We made a quick drive into Halifax yesterday morning from Porter's Lake Provincial Park to pick up my bike. We arrived early, before Cyclesmith opened. Yes, yours truly was actually early for something! Of course all I had to do was roll out of the bunk, put on some clothes and grab some breakfast to eat while Greg drove. The traffic wasn't bad and we made our way back over the A. Murray MacKay Bridge. This is the third time we have driven across it. Every time we have been charged a different toll, $2.50, $1.75, and $1.00. Actually, once we didn't pay. The toll collector took our $5 bill and gave us loonies ($1 coins) back. The bar went up and we drove through while I counted out our change, 5 loonies! Apparently we were supposed to toss a loonie in the bin, but the toll collector was so busy flirting with a guy visiting her booth, that she raised the bar without looking to see if we paid! Yesterday, thinking it would be a loonie, we tossed one in the bin and the bar didn't raise. The operator told us we needed another 75 cents. ????? Okay, a sign listing tolls would be helpful...

Porter Lake synchronized swimming by baby ducks

We found a parking spot in the residential neighborhood a few blocks from the bike shop. As we were leaving the rig a group of women on bikes asked if we were visiting their house and offered us the use of their facilities (they were having a pee break!) We told them we had our own, but thanks! Cyclesmith opened and I reclaimed my old mountain bike, 80's vintage, with a shiny new electric assist motor! I have now gone turbo! Greg and I both took it out for a spin and had a nice conversation with Paul, the owner of the shop. We have enjoyed working with him; helpful, friendly and very informed about the motors. He originally came from London, Ontario, which is near Tavistock where Greg's grandfather was from. His staff was great as well, and we really liked the Quinpool Road area of Halifax. We had a great lunch in a local Greek restaurant the last time we were there, while we discussed whether to buy a new bike or retro-fit mine. In fact, we really like Halifax, and for Greg to agree to that sentiment is major, considering that he doesn't like cities.

Bike Shop

Adjusting the fiddly bits

When we took the bike back to the rig to mount it on the hitch, we were greeted from the balcony above by a couple and their dog. We had a delightful conversation with Brian and Julia, who wound up coming down to the street for a tour of the rig. He consults with aquaculture and she is a former nurse who now works at the medical school as a “faux patient” for the students to train on. Sorry, I forgot the official name for the job. They had a cute dog that reminded me of a Bichon Fris, but is a Havanese. As fate would have it, they have been discussing doing what we are doing, before retirement, and we had a lively discussion about our lifestyle, the unusual weather, careers, re-habbing houses, Nova Scotia, Key West and fish farms! They had work to get done on their house, and we had a ferry to catch, so we said goodbye and drove out of the city. Perhaps our paths will cross again someday on the road!



As we drove north and then east, the clouds began to build and just as we got in line to drive on the ferry, we had a downpour! There was no problem getting on the 2:45 pm ferry to Prince Edward Island without a reservation. Summer doesn't start up here until July 1, which is Canada Day, even though yesterday was the summer solstice. (Happy Half-Birthday Kaylin!!! No internet to call or message you, sorry...) The rain fell just long enough to greet the cars getting off to rainy Nova Scotia! Interestingly, the clouds didn't part until we arrived at the dock on Prince Edward Island, where the sun was shining! Then the thunderstorms rolled in.

Getting on the ferry

PEI

While leaning on the deck railing, we had a talk with another Canadian couple who live fifteen minutes from the ferry on the Nova Scotian side. They were going over on the ferry to spend the weekend at his sister's place. They had recently been to Georgia to visit his sister who lives in Macon. We had another interesting conversation about Nova Scotia and PEI, real estate on the island, restaurants, good beaches, the weather (always the weather!), dogs, Alaska, and Savannah, Georgia! They wished us well as we hurried back to the bottom deck to drive our RV off the ferry.



Leaving the ferry we stopped at a visitor center, and then headed due north for about 20 minutes to the Brudenell River and the Brudenell River Provincial Park. They had a site for us for two nights, so we set up in a light rain and dodged black flies. According to Julia, June is the end of black fly season, but then the mosquitoes start. The campground is fairly full for the weekend. The weather is good, and summer is starting, so we are seeing families, after seven months of being the youngest guests in many campgrounds.

Visitors center with thunderstorms approaching

This morning Greg got up early and hopped on his bike to explore the Confederation rail trails near here. He took two spurs to Montague and Georgetown. After lunch, I joined him on the spur back to Georgetown and the harbor. Summer is finally here, and it was so nice to ride in the woods and enjoy the temperature in the 70's. I had half a charge left on my new battery and was afraid I wouldn't have enough charge to help me on the way back, so I didn't use it much. Turned out I had plenty. I wish I had used it more, I need it until I get in better shape, so next time I'll know better. Greg took it out after we got back and put it on scooter mode to run down the battery so we could re-charge it for the first time. Tomorrow we are moving over to the Prince Edward Island National Park on the north shore where there are a lot of trails and roads to bike on.

PEI Bike rack

Georgetown Harbor

Kathleen with Enhanced bike

Georgetown Inn

Confederation Trail

This morning while Greg was biking I stayed behind and straightened up and wrote. I watched the antics of the local ravens out the window. Two campsites down is a group of three moms, and nine or ten kids, with four cars and two tents and lots of chairs, coolers and other stuff strewn about the campsite. They all went to the pool and left behind a picnic table full of food and drinks. One raven discovered it and called three more friends and they spent some time pulling apart bags and boxes and sipping from styrofoam cups. Ravens are very crafty and intelligent and worked diligently at the job while flying off with bits of cereal.

Raven checking out the goods

This evening they all left again and we looked out the window and saw a raccoon sneaking up between their cars. They have three coolers on the ground, and that is easy picking for a raccoon, so Greg went out twice to scare it off. The second time it sauntered across the road and up a tree and watched him at eye level. I went out with the camera. Greg growled at it and it growled back! It was not too happy with my flash, but didn't want to leave. Finally it went slinking off, and the campers next door returned shortly after that. I wasn't feeling too sorry for our neighbors. They are locals and should be wise to the antics of the ravens, if not the raccoon.

Let me at those coolers!

We are both tired tonight. It has been over a month since we have been on our bikes. We have had maybe six days without rain since we arrived in Canada a month ago. Random raindrops hit the windshield when we are driving, even if it is mostly clear, and I have developed my live imitation of the painting, “The Silent Scream” when I see them! No photo, you'll have to use your imagination!

Rain, Fog, Sun, and Moonlight!

Thursday, June 20, 2013

Tuesday began with what promised to be better weather, but instead, fog rolled in and out all day. Greg got up early and walked to breakfast at a close by cafe. He spent the meal eavesdropping on the old lobstermen who were lamenting the state of the lobster fishery in the area and how the catch is dwindling. Then we drove to the local laundromat to do two weeks worth of laundry. Two hours later, we drove to the lighthouse on the other side of the harbor. By the time we got out on the point to see the lighthouse, there wasn't much visible except the rocks close by on the shore. A surprising amount of sightseers were there, including a tour bus. After we ate lunch, Greg decided to do the 3 kilometer hike along the shore through the fog. I stayed behind and put away laundry and made the bed, while listening to the Americans from the tour bus, standing around the parking lot complaining while the bus engine loudly idled. Then we drove back to our campground and watched the locals drive through and ogle the campers. Small town Nova Scotia. We felt so exotic!
Tuesday night the rain started again. The forecast called for partly cloudy and I guess it was somewhere, but we drove through rain all morning as we headed south to leave Cape Breton Island. The southeast coast is very sparsely populated and by midday we had reached the only large town in the south of the island, Port Hawkesbury. We needed a resupply of groceries, so we stopped for the first time at an Atlantic Superstore, which seemed to be the same as the Sobey's we had stopped in last time. Even the President's Choice brand that we keep finding all over Atlantic Canada is the same.

The light at Louisbourg Harbor

View from the Coastal Trail

We went in to rain and came out an hour later to sun! Crossing the causeway off the island and back to the mainland we left the main highway and followed the coast south again towards Halifax. Driving along Chedabucto Bay we saw cargo ships waiting to load up after traveling up from the Atlantic Ocean. By late afternoon we had reached the fishing port of Canso, on Cape Canso, on the northeastern tip of mainland Nova Scotia.

One-lane Bailey bridges were common

Monument to the first European to land in North America

Yet another cute lighthouse

Typical country church

Canso was founded in 1604 by the British, and was sacked and changed hands between the French and the British many times over the centuries. During the Revolutionary War, Americans came up and sacked it too. Parks Canada runs a boat over to Grassy Island where the original settlement existed, but they don't start until July 1st. We stayed overnight in the Cape Canso RV Park right on the harbor in a semi-grassy field.

View of Canso Harbor from our campsite

View of Canso village from our campground

This morning before leaving Louisbourg, Greg called Paul at Cyclesmith and found out that they were working on my bike and it would be ready in the afternoon. Because we were still about 200 miles northeast of Halifax, we arranged to pick it up Friday morning. We left Canso with the sun still shining. Glorious! Traveling back down the coast took us through lots of small villages on the many bays and harbors. Around every turn we had a beautiful vista. There is so much waterfront property in Nova Scotia. If you aren't into coastal scenes, there are tons of freshwater lakes as well. The population is mostly on the coasts. The interior is mostly empty and wooded. Rarely do you see a junky yard. Nova Scotians seem to be hardworking people who care for their properties even when they aren't prosperous. With the sunny weather, we saw laundry hanging on lots of clotheslines.

View from Coastal Highway 4

Our lunch stop in Goldboro

Another fine bridge

Stop in St. Mary's for more smoked salmon

Salvage operation or just a wreck?

We saw a bald eagle soaring overhead as we drove an interior stretch due to a closed ferry. The one downside of the day was the state of disrepair of Nova Scotian roads. The freeze-thaw cycle is rough on roads, but we have been driving on lots of provincial and local roads that have multiple patches on multiple patches, potholes and crumbling edges. The national highways, like our interstates are good, but once off those, you can expect anything. Our RV sways and bounces quite a bit anyway, so we are constantly entertained as we drive, by drawers sliding in and out on turns, hats and shoes falling off the top bunk and occasional crashes in the bathroom! From time to time as we drive, I have to get up and balance my way down the aisle to check on something. All those years of bus rides for school field trips paid off with my moving vehicle balancing abilities!


This evening we came back to Porter's Lake Provincial Park where we tried to stay over a week ago, when we were looking for a few nights stay to wait out the rain. At that time there was no potable water so we left. But, we had toured the campground, so we knew that in nice weather it would be a good place for one night of dry camping. We picked out a great spot on an island in the lake. There is only a tent down the end that we can't see. We have a gorgeous view of the lake with just a few houses in the distance. After dinner we took a walk and found a beaver swimming along the edge of the lake at dusk. We watched it for a while as it swam up and down and nibbled at bushes on the lake shore.

Porter's Lake campsite

View from campsite

Best yet view from bathroom window!

Causeway to island where the campsite is located

View of island - campsite hidden behind tall pines

Moonrise over Porters Lake

Beaver or Nessie?

 The almost full moon, which we haven't seen in ages due to the rain and fog is currently high over the lake and shining on the water. With no one to see in on the lake side of the camper, we left the blinds open. I would love to open the window a crack to listen for loons, but since there are some black flies here, I expect there are also no-see-ums.
 
Tomorrow we drive early into Halifax to retrieve my bike, and then we are hoping to drive north to the Northumberland Strait and hop the ferry to Prince Edward Island. Time to explore a new Province!